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We have received several inquiries asking if we are running ahead of schedule and we feel a route update and explaination is in order.

The “schedule” got blown out of the water way back in Austria and we have been since flying, more or less, by the seat of our pants. Some days you wake up and decide to make changes; some roads take you in a different direction.

When we had arrived in Zadar, Croatia we were supposed to cut in land towards Bosnia, but the route was ridiculously mountainous and would have been frigid. We had met Tobias at this point and really enjoyed his company and the comforts of the Adriatic Coast. Then when we got nailed by wind and rain on the ride to Zadar, we decided to hop a bus to the south of Croatia. Since we gained five days time in about six hours, we decided to ride through Albania into Greece instead of taking the ferry in Bar, Montenegro to Bari, Italy, and then to Patras, Greece.

We were planning on riding through Albania to Greece, but then our road turned into a river bottom and we went through Macedonia instead. When we got to Greece and back to the Euro and pissed off sheepard dogs and crappy roads, we knew we wanted to get to Turkey quickly to find a place to take a vacation for a week or so.

So maybe we are head of schedule, but in reality, we took our proposed route and cut it into pieces. We have probably reduced the overall distance, but that was not our driving force to begin with.

The blue line is the Actual Route to date. Tomorrow we head north to Istanbul

Something has gone haywire with our WordPress template and our site has become rather scrambled. Please disregard any untidiness in the layout, and as always, enjoy the ride!

Chad and Jowita

We arrived in Güzelcamli, expecting to stay a day or two. But as you can see by the title of this post, two days has turned into nearly two weeks. What the heck happened?

We felt very comfortable in next to the beach cafe in Pamulcak with our new friend Idel, but we were running very low on clean clothes (had none) and clean bodies (didn’t exist). A while back we had been thinking it would be nice to find a farmstay sort of place where you can work and stay in an agricultural environment for relatively cheap. Tobias had told us about a farm on the Dilek Penninsula in Turkey he was thinking about working at for some time. We like the idea and the location and thought we take a look. Of course, some simple research on the internet turned up that you have to endure a whole bunch of procedural BS we didn’t have time for. Instead, we decided we will just drop in and see what happens. Besides, it was surely going to be a small family run farm that could always use a couple extra pairs of hands right? Oh how wrong we were!! This was no small family farm, oh no! It was a serious, big business and our request to speak to Julide, the chief, was recieved with a look of shock! “You want to speak to the Chief??” Oh yes, this was akward.

We were excited to find they had no accomodation available, and we quickly hit high tail to the road. We went for plan B, the Ecer Pension near the national park in Güzelcamli. The moment we walked through the gate, the garden greated us with warmth. THe owner, Necip (Knee-jip), walked with us to the fishmers coop to pick out fish for the night. We bought a barracuda and fed like kings. The next night Necip made us lamb, we were hooked. Suddenly we found ourselves here for five nights and just when we were about to leave, Necip made us an offer we couldn’t refuse — work in the garden every other day, pay half price. We walked to the soccer game, came home, and accepted his offer. At this point we were hooked on drawing at the harbor and the food the three of us had been preparing every night. We had always planned on taking some time somewhere, and this is what we were looking for.

It took us a while to realize it, but we are now on vacation, hence the total lack of email checking, status updates, and until now, blog updates. The downside of being away from the internet is however, our missed opportunity to see Tobias again. He passed within 15km of us, and because we hadn#t checked all of our email accounts in a week and a half, we missed his message. THis bums us out, but such is life. Sorry Tobias, we screwed up. We miss you.

On Tuesday morning we will resume riding, now in the direction of Istanbul and the end of our journey. This is not going to be easy especially after two weeks of “vacation”. It is not the riding that is going to be difficult, of course, but knowing that we are headed to the close of this journey. We are excited to see our families, no doubt, but we feel as though we are just breaking the surface here and how easy it would be to just continue eastward. Oh how we want to go east, to taste and smell, to see and meet, to hear and be heard, to live and learn. but we head towards Istanbul, and it will be good.

Near Pamulcak (which is most likely being misspelled in these lazy posts) is the very well known Ionian/Roman city of Efes or Ephesus. We went to visit it on our first day in the area but were scared by the hoards of tourists pouring through it, and the number of men hawking their cheap goods, (except for the fresh fig man, he was good). A taxi driver over heard us and suggested we come back the next day because their will be no cruise ship in the Kusadesi harbor and consequently much less tourists. We took his advice and were very happy for it. It is a beautiful site, but maybe a little too well done for our taste. After having such an intimate experince with Teos, seeing all of the theatricality of the tour groups was a touch off putting.

One of the seven wonders of the world

Our Campsite at Notion

The first flat tire of our entire trip!! And What company to change it in!

Staring out to sea at Notion (no-T-own)

Approaching the beach at Pamulcak with caution!

Subset over the Greek Island Samos, at our campsite on the Pamulcak beach

We spent two nights on the Pamulcak Beach hanging out by the fire with Idel, the gracious owner of the beach cafe we camped next to!

Our Beach Home

Our Beach Friends

From one Ionian Ruin to another, unexpectedly!

The whole of the Western Turkish Coast is covered with ripe Mandarin Oranges at this time of the year! Heaven!!

We are always on the search for the best bread. The mans was pretty good. But not the best- None the less, his oven is very impressive!

From arid and grassy

to lush and productive.....in one morning!

Sunset over the Aegean at the ruined Ionian City, Notion

Melon Bowl Muesli!!!

Where one finds Fishnets, one finds Cats!! Lots of them!

Jowita riding through Sagacik after Turkish tea

Ionian Teos, our personal Ancient City for the night

Our home, tucked into a collasped section of the Roman barrel vaults at the top of the Teos Theatro

Our Personal Ancient Amptheater

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After a rough night, a beautiful view is a welcome sight
Our campsite was a pretty good one, but dogs suck! It was a night of episodes. Thunderstorms and barking dogs. They started barking at a distance and slowly, still barking of course, approached our alien tent, until they got within range of our Ultrasonic Dog Deterrer
Delicious melons along the rough road from Cesme to Izmir

and then we lay listening to the dog scurry away in silence. This was the one and only time our Dazer 2 has actually been useful, otherwise, it does not work while ride a bicycle.

We got back on the road, but now, after reaching Turkey, we were in more of a holiday mindset, meaning, we moved slower.

We crossed the Aegean Sea to Turkey, bright and early. We stepped foot into Turkey and felt instant relief. We had made it.

The port manager invited us into his office and gave us directions to his friend’s Thermal Pool. We found a great cafe and sunk into Turkish cuisine!!

We happily boarded the boat for the 20 hour ferry ride to Island Chios. We claimed nice corner spot for our sleeping bags and settled in for a queezy night at sea.

Breakfast on the deck of the ship to Chios

This was the biggest boat either of us have been on